This tie is unofficial version, and is not actual. Currently, there are newer official versions, which are better and simpler to do. However, you can find inspiration in this article, when you finish learning official versions.
Here is bondage tutorial for karada, body dress tutorial. I use a figurine on most of my ties, therefor please excuse lesser aesthetic. My target is to find how to bind some more complicated ties and to share this ties with others riggers. I'd be glad if this ties would help you to improve your skills. Even if you would find some variations, please share with me, we can help each other.
If you find this tutorial beneficial to you and enriching your skills please share with me your experiece or publish your own tutorial. If you will find some other variation of this tie or something new. My email is email@example.com or: i dot love dot bondage at seznam.cz and I (and other fans of shibari) would like to learn more body dresses and different Japanese ties. I'd like to build more tutorials so you can contribute with your experiences. Also if you would like see here more other Japanese tutorials contact me. The idea of sharing experience about Japanese bondage is valid everywhere on this blog.
Don't do suspension if you didn't read enough stuff about Japanese techniques for suspension and about suspension safety. This could be very risky because with incorrectly implemented suspension you could harm hardly or kill your partner. However you can use this tie for save bondage games or just for making photos if you do not tight it too much!
Have scissors for rope ready (I would use normal scissors or a knife in the worst case).
If the person feels some tingling in the hands then it is signal tie is very tight and the person will not be possible to stay in the tie for long time. Be ready to release the parts that are tight tied.
If you would make the tie too tight and person hands are getting blue (blood circulation is too much restricted) untie the tie in the place of boola boola. You release the bight of boola boola and untie the boola boola immediately.
This article describes a tie, that is similar to Takate Kote (concerning placement of horizontal wraps over arms). Therefor you can read articles about safety of TK (Takate Kote); these I created after I had written the TK2 and TK3 articles:
Name: This is how I call this karada because I like it and it is really super.
Origin: I've bound this tie when I tried to emulate Ropemark's tie. I exactly don't know if I did it same way. There are some little differences. But never mind I am content with the final product.
We begin with two rope takate-kote as shows tutorial here: forumbondage - tutorials
We need 2 ropes with length 9m or 18m long rope.
Save your rope on boola boola. Measure carefully to save your rope. My bad experience with this part is that if you waste on boola boola you could have problem to finish 1st part of tie. You could run out of rope before you would do leg loops, which are very important to built front lines.
Continuing to superkarada
We need next 16m or longer rope for front vertical lines and for leg loops. I used 16m of rope, but there were some remains which I used on buttocks. And next 9m, of rope to belly parts.
- 3x 9m rope and 1x 16m or 18 rope
It is also possible to use 5x9m to all or 3x9+2x8 (depends on you and your model thickness)
Schemes & the most important parts
Superkarada - schemes & important points
Intro I call the part where we go from back - neck over shoulders to bind ropes to shinju or bra. We fold the 16m ropes so we have doubled 7m for our tie. We find a middle and put it under neck. Place it where the stem of takate kote is. This is simple. For crossing wraps of takate kote we use Munter hitches or crossing hitch. To see how to tie Munter hitch see first series of photos here.
Between breast there is a single twist. See this image from luvbight.com:
1.2 Rope to back
To finish the intro part, draw the rope to back as here:
Warn here. Rope not too tight and not too loose. Exactly how on the image. We will attach two ropes later on vertical column of the rope!
If you would do too free rope then you could run out of rope.
Next part I call Overhand knot. We need to tie it under takate kote arms at back. We use the rest of rope of takate-kote. See how much of rope you will need - 2.6m:
Take the ropes together and make the overhand knot just under the arms. Overhand knot on photos bellow.
Warning: Not too tight! You need a free knot to create hole in it later.
Warning: Check its position while you continue tying. You must understand that this knot is a center for belly ropes, so it is important to keep correct shape of lines.
Tip: To keep the overhand knot on its place just under forearms, you can find better to draw the rope from belly directly under wraps of boola boola and then down under forearms, where you will make the knot. This prevents the knot to get too low. Disadvantage: It consumes a bit more rope. Advantage: It really helps to get the knot on correct position.
Here is it on image:
The 16m rope (green end) which we have taken from front and drawn back and pull through the hole in knot.
3. The leg wrap
We take the "green" rope from back through crotch to front. We need to make the open loops. One on the buttocks - the outside and lower part. The second in front will join the first loop. See the left leg image:
Warning: Check its position on nates. It is really far of the spine. It is near to a hip. This makes a big triangle (bottom of pelvis + 1 knot on left + 1 knot on right). If you would make this just a little triangle, so you can't create a stretching triangle on buttockslater.
Warning: This is problematic place. When you use this half hitch (Note: in original text here was "Munter hitch" by incident) so the rope can shift and slip later when you will built the stretching triangle. I think that only good (and aesthetic) solution could be to make the half hitch and not to tighten the stretching triangle on buttocks. You could use double Munter hitch to prevent slipping but then you cannot use the buttocks triangle because it does not look good. The hole in the double Munter hitch is different and ropes don't go smoothly. Try and make your choice.
This is bad example with double munter hitch and too small triangle. Not nice.
We begin with right leg
The front on left photo:
The second photo shows how we join open loop with the rope leading to it.
Warn: Check its position on thigh.
More images - see the left leg below!
The images lower show a knot under arms. You have to realize this photo was created while loosing the tie. Therefor all ropes was free and the knot got from level of under-arms to level of waist. Be sure your knot is exactly under arms.
The ropes from leg wraps comes to overhand knot. Other words pull your working end there.
We do the same on right leg. See photos. If you did not inderstand last description, I hope you will do now from photos of left leg:
Warn: Check its position on thigh.
When going back, we make half hitch oriented upwards:
Half hitch (above).
Drawing ropes to left side and right side of body.
We have the 16m green rope divided in two parts. Both are working ends indeed. But I call it one part is bight and the second is working end. Bight to right side (watching on person's back) and working end to left side.
To right side, to front rope and back. We finish at overhand knot, where the rope should end. No making knots now.
To left side - same as above. We take working and and get it though the bight and make a finishing knot know.
Right side - the bight:
Now we see the final photo of the leg wrap. We now go to create a right side rope (green bight).
On next photo we see the right side rope is done. That is the main horizontal line leading to hexagon (name for on-coming form). Do you see the green bight on right side?
And here is working end of last leg wrap. We take the rope from crotch and to overhand knot and around left side of body. Don't forget to put it through green bight.
Left photo: left side before attaching a rope. Right photo: attaching the rope.
Remember well: Under variation, supply top!
A crossing knot alias Munter hitch:
Remember: This decorative rope must be done after you did the loops on legs. This is the remain of rope. If you would do a mistake and did it before, then you can have problems if you run out of rope or the rope will not be tighten enough.
Finishing at back overhand knot: My desintegrating overhand knot. This was while loosing the tie.
Tip:Are you having a problem, that your bight is longer then the working end? Never mind. On the way back just insert the bight into the hole of overhand knot and then continue on the opposite side of belly, towards the working end. Insert the working end into the bight and pull it as tight as comfortable. This way you enclosed the loop/wrap. Now you need to lock it. Your bight should be now somewhere on the side of body or on back. If your working end is near to the Munter hitch on a belly, just lock it there. Use few half hitches to lock the rope. Or if you have not enough rope to get the belly, just finish near to the bight.
5. Belly parts - red rope
Now we will go from back to front right side (watching from person's view). We will make this knot:
and then middle and left side.
We will need to make a join for red rope. We will add 9m of red rope to takate kote rope.
Making a knot with bottom orientation:
It is munter hitch with an extra hitch. I think we could call this double munter hitch. Two munter hitches beside themself but the outgoing rope of the second hitch leads to the hole of the previous one. See next picture:
Second picture above shows that I draw rope down to leg, where are two holes. I draw the rope through them and then up. The second picture below depicts how I draw the rope trough hole of double munter hitch.
We will join left and right side together. That is not a join. Making a wrap and decorative wrapping (4th picture below).
Second picture above: making a munter hitch leading down.
Same as right side, accept I changed a knot. 1) Munter hitch 2) down through holes 3) back up 4) to hole of previous munter hitch and finish with second munterhitch.6) going to back
We make finishing at back by decorative wraps...
6. Mount of Venus
After we make final wraps, we draw red rope to crotch to front and we will contract left and right side upon mons pubis. Then draw the rope back.
7. Stretch of buttock ropes
4 ropes at behind is not ideal, there for I stretch two of them. It makes nice contraction.
Now finish or continue on legs tie.